Returning to Fleet Street, admire the art-deco design of the former Daily Express building, opposite, with its ocean liner-like curves of steel and glass. Next door to St Bride’s at No 85 is the former Reuters building, designed by Lutyens. Cross Fleet Street and continue west, passing 135 Peterborough Court with its mock-Egyptian façade, which once housed The Daily Telegraph, to reach the Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese at No 145. It was Johnson who wrote: “There is nothing which has as yet been contrived by man, by which so much happiness is produced as by a good tavern or inn.” Bar food is served in the dark-panelled rooms, and the restaurant Chop Room does a filling steak-and-kidney pudding for £8.95.
Immediately beyond the pub, follow the brown-and-white signs, right, to Dr Johnson’s house in Gough Square, passing a statue of the writer’s cat, Hodge. Admission to the 18th-century home is £4.50 (Mon-Sat 11:00-17:00 Oct to Apr; 11:00-17:30 May-Sep; closed Sun and Bank Holidays). Return to Fleet Street and turn right, then right again on to Fetter Lane to emerge opposite the Gothic Prudential Assurance building. Cross the road, following the brown-and-white arrows in the direction of Leather Lane market and, at the King of Diamonds pub, turn right into Greville Street to meet Hatton Garden. The London Diamond Bourse and Club, 100 Hatton Garden, is where brokers trade the world’s rough diamonds.
Turn right on Hatton Garden to Holborn Circus, then left to Holborn Viaduct following the partially obscured brown-and-white signs, in the direction of St Paul’s. When you reach The Viaduct Tavern, turn right into Old Bailey. Turn left at Ludgate Hill where St Paul’s dominates the view with its 365ft dome. Admission is £8, family tickets £19.50 (Mon-Sat 08:30-6:30).
With St Paul’s on your left, pass the City of London Information kiosk and cross at the lights to reach the Millennium Bridge, the first pedestrian bridge built across the Thames for more than a century. It has excellent views back to St Paul’s and east to Tower Bridge. Turn right by Tate Modern and follow the riverside back to Blackfriars Bridge, from where you retrace your steps to Waterloo.
Page 2 of 2