But the site was shared between the two great powers of the day—the crown and the church. The bishops longed for their own enclave away from the king’s men. And in the 13th century, fresh water was more important than hill-top security. When the clergy decided to build a new cathedral down on the water meadows, it was the signal for an amazing migration.
The whole population moved to the new site, leaving Old Sarum to fall into ruin. Today, this is one of the most intriguing English Heritage sites—a wonderful spot to stand, perched on the windy ramparts, surveying the panorama of the great plain rolling away towards Stonehenge. Just below the hill, in the hazy bowl formed by the meeting of five rivers, you’ll see the city that took its place. Clustered around its soaring spire is the “new Sarum”—Salisbury.
Salisbury Tourist Information Centre, Fish Row, Salisbury (01722 334956; visitsalisbury.com). A 15-minute walk from Salisbury station.
Viva the festival!
From 25 May to 10 June 2007, the city hosts Salisbury International Arts Festival, one of Britain’s most diverse annual cultural events with a packed programme of music, drama, dance, opera and street performance.
One of this year’s themes is Latin America, which means you’ll be able to enjoy Argentinian tango, Chilean guitar, Venezuelan jazz, Mexican film and Brazilian theatre. Salsa workshops will take place in and around Salisbury (£1; booking essential) and there will be the opportunity to show off your new-found dancing skills at the Festival Fiesta on Saturday 9 June in The Close. There’s more music and dance on offer at the latest show from flamenco legend Paco Peña at Salisbury City Hall on Friday 1 June. But it’s not all about the Latin world. The literature programme includes musician and commentator Billy Bragg sharing his thoughts from his latest book, and former PM John Major talking about his new book on the history of cricket. Other highlights include garage rocker Ryan Adams, who will be playing in the very special setting of Stonehenge on Tuesday 5 June, and the Philharmonia Orchestra with Vladimir Ashkenazy performing at the Cathedral on Wednesday 30 May.
For details of the full programme, please call 0845 241 9650 or visit www.salisburyfestival.co.uk. To book tickets, call 0845 241 9651, go online (see address above), or buy them in person from the following venues: Salisbury Playhouse, Salisbury Arts Centre, Salisbury City Hall and Salisbury Festival Offices.
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