... continued
You can even get free beer and bread if you take a 15-minute stroll across the picturesque water meadows to the Hospital of St Cross. There are no ill people at St Cross; this is a "hospital", as in "hospitality". What you will find is England's oldest and most perfectly preserved almshouse. For more than 850 years, it has provided food and shelter to people in need, and even today visitors can still receive the Wayfarer's Dole (a small cup of beer and a "morsel" of bread), free of charge. Once, the Wayfarer's Dole was common all over the country; today St Cross is the last survivor of this tradition.
From free bread to home baking. There are not many cities that can still boast a working mill. The water-powered Winchester City Mill is just a scone's throw from the iconic statue of King Alfred, who once ruled Wessex from here—even if he didn't excel in baking! Traditional stoneground wholemeal flour is produced from locally grown wheat and sold in the shop, alongside local honey and preserves, so you have all the ingredients for a teatime treat.
Eye openers to modern art
Despite its rich historical heritage, Winchester's love affair with modern art is apparent across the city. A favourite is Peter Freeman's Luminous Motion, a tower of pulsing lights in The Square, where the general public can participate in the creative process. Want to change the colours or light sequence you see? Text 07980 732147 and choose from Lightdancer, Breathe, Radiance, Eyepop or other variations. Even if modern sculpture usually leaves you cold, don't miss Sound II, a trademark androgynous statue by Antony Gormley (creator of Angel of the North), in the cathedral crypt. If the crypt floods, as it is prone to, the reflection in the water is hauntingly beautiful. Pick up the brochure Eye Openers (free from the tourist office) to see more art on the streets, including works by Elisabeth Frink and Barbara Hepworth.
A town fit for heroes (and lunatics)
Not only is the Royal Green Jackets Museum one of the finest regimental museums in the country, but this famous Winchester-based division has been awarded more Victoria Crosses (59) than any other regiment in the British Army. There are 34 on display here, each with its own fascinating tale of selfless bravery attached.
Finally, expect mayhem on the streets—fire-eating, high-wire unicycling jugglers, madcap clowns, daredevil aerial acrobats, surreal comedians, crazed contortionists and a host of outlandish characters of every kind, who come from all over the world—in the last weekend in June. It's all part of Winchester Hat Fair, Britain's longest running street performers' festival.
page 2 of 3 