A crunchy excursion on to the dry wastes of Chesil Beach is not to be missed, but the South West Coast Path itself runs westwards along the inner bank of The Fleet, an eight-mile brackish lagoon that lies between the land and the shingle bank. Here, you’ll find ducks, swans and other waterfowl, and the banks dotted with beautiful wildflowers, such as hawkweed and sea mayweed.
After a couple of miles, a detour into the hamlet of Fleet brings you to a pretty little chapel. It is the setting for one of the creepiest episodes in John Meade Faulkner’s famous and much-filmed thriller Moonfleet, where the young hero is trapped by a smuggling gang in the vault beneath the chancel floor. In the 18th century, smuggling was no romantic fiction, but a steady means of income for the local men who brought ashore the untaxed “brandy for the parson, baccy for the clerk”.
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